Good Day Everyone,
On the weekend, Hubby & I headed out to one of Tokyo's most famous parks,
Ueno Park, to see the cherry blossom trees, known as
sakura in Japanese. The
sakura/cherry blossom festival marks the arrival of spring and is celebrated by having picnics in the parks/gardens with family, friends and work colleagues.
There
are often
traditional tea ceremonies and it is quite common to see
Japanese women in
traditional dress. Viewing cherry blossoms is like a
national event in Japan and the more well known parks get
incredibly
crowded, especially on the weekends, as we found out. The queues at the
barriers just to get out of Ueno station at the park exit were 30+
people deep! Whilst on the lookout for somewhere to have lunch we ended
up wandering through
Ameyoko, a shopping bazaar to the south of
Ueno station that had stores selling anything and everything, with
vendors shouting over one another, vying for people's attention. It
was then that we spotted a halal
Turkish kebab shop, in fact
there were several in the bazaar. Seeing some empty benches we took
advantage of being able to have a quick sit down. The kebab was better
than I expected and not like the processed donner meat where you can't
actually tell what's in it. This was more like a shawarma with chunks of
real meat and a generous layer of cabbage salad stuffed into a pitta
bread.
We then followed the crowds into the park, which was opened to the public in 1873 and is
free to enter. Ueno Park is very popular for
hanami (cherry
blossom viewing) parties as it has more than 1,000 cherry trees lining
its central pathway. Many people bring their own picnics but there are
also numerous food stalls in specific parts of the park selling a wide
variety of snacks.
As
you will see in the video below, this particular part of the park was
unbelievably crowded, so much so that we couldn't bring ourselves to
walk the length of the central pathway. We decided to explore the
periphery of the park instead.
We took advantage of some steps that we noticed and climbed to
the top to get a better view of the cherry tree lined central pathway
and the endless stream of crowds trying to make their way along it. At
the bottom of the stairs is a large bibbed
Jizo Bodhisattva statue. Jizo
is known as the protector of children, women and travelers.
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| A bibbed Jizo Bodhisattava statue |
At the top of this
somewhat hidden hill, known as Daibutsu yama or
Great Buddha Hill, is a
Chedi which is a symbol of Buddhism. We saw people offering prayers at
the Chedi. Next to the Chedi is The
Ueno Daibutsu which was a huge
seated bronze buddha statue that stood in what is now known as Ueno Park
from 1623-1923. The statue was destroyed in the 1923 Tokyo earthquake.
The remains of the statue were left in the park for many years before
the body was melted down for metal in
WWII. As you can see in the photo
below, the great buddha's face is all that remains now.
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| The face of Ueno Daibutsu |
We then headed towards the
Toshogu Shrine and along the way saw what little is left of
Kaneiji
Temple. Kaneiji Temple once occupied
all of Ueno Park. It was built to
protect
Edo Castle from the northeast which is considered to be an
unlucky direction. The temple was huge and consisted of numerous
buildings, but the whole complex was destroyed during the
Battle of Ueno,
which was a battle of the
Boshin War in 1868-1869. What remains today
is the
five storey pagoda which actually sits
inside Ueno Zoo, in the
middle of Ueno Park.
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| 5 storey pagoda |
Toshogu Shrine is one of Tokyo's most tastefully preserved shrines having
miraculously
escaped
the disasters of the
Battle of Ueno
in 1868, the 1923 Great
Kanto Earthquake,
and the wartime bombings
of Tokyo
in 1945. There are large
copper lanterns on the grounds leading to the shrine that have been
donated by various warlords. In addition to the lanterns, there are
several other interesting structures along the way to the shrine.
There
is a place for visitors to
cleanse and purify themselves using
traditional ladles and water that flows out through a bamboo pipe. There
is a plaque on a wall detailing the specific steps of the cleansing
ritual.
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| Water and ladles for cleansing and purification |
Next to the cleansing site and in front of
the large lanterns is a display of ema.
Ema are small wooden plaques
upon which visitors/worshipers write their
wishes/prayers. These are then left hanging at the shrines where
gods/spirits receive them. As expected, most were written in Japanese
but there were some written in English, as well as several other
language. It was really lovely just to take some time out and read
these. I captured a few close ups in the vlog including one that really
touched my heart so you can read those by watching the above video :o).
 |
| Lots of ema plaques |
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| Ema plaques with wishes and prayers |
Across from the ema display is a very
poignant
display of
The Flame of Hiroshima and Nagasaki. The flame burns in the
centre of the wing of the bird monument below as a
peaceful protest
against the use of nuclear weapons. We spent quite a few minutes reading
the accompanying plaque and thinking about the harrowing devastation
that the dropping of the world's first two atomic bombs, by US forces in
August 1945, must have had... it truly is
heart breaking and a moment
that will stay with me forever.
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| The Flame of Hiroshima and Nagasaki |
We
then walked further along to take a look at the
Karamon, a Chinese
style gate built in 1651 at the front of the Toshogu Shrine. The gate is very ornate
with
two dragons carved on pillars at either side of the gate. The
dragons are known as Noboriryu and Kudariryu which means Ascending
Dragon and Descending Dragon. In the video you can see the praying
ritual made by lots of people at the gate.
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| Karamon - a Chinese style gate | |
Ueno Park is huge! As well as Ueno Zoo, there are
numerous museums including Tokyo National Museum, National Science
Museum, and National Museum of Western Art, to name a few. We didn't visit any of the museums as we wanted to enjoy the wonderfully warm
spring weather. As well as admiring the beautiful cherry blossom trees,
we also enjoyed looking at the wonderful bamboo fences and gates. I
love Japanese gardens!
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| Bamboo fencing |
After several hours of walking, we were in need of liquid refueling and so we headed out of the park back to the main road to look for somewhere to rest our sore feet and grab a drink. After a short rest we headed to the southern end of Ueno Park to the
Shinobazu Pond. There were little independent stalls surrounding the pond at one end
selling all sorts of bits and bobs. I think most were selling second
hand/used items, but there was everything from wooden cutlery and
ornaments to old camera lenses and musical instruments, as well as
jewellery and clothes.
 |
| Bentendo Temple Hall in Shinobazu Pond |
The pond is split into
three parts and at it's centre is
Bentendo, an octagonal shaped temple hall. This particular part of the pond is especially lively during cherry blossom season with numerous food stalls. At one part of the pond you can hire paddle boats but I warn you, the queues are extremely long at this time of the year.
As the sun began to set, the night time cherry blossom illuminations were switched on. We took one final partial (it was still ridiculously busy lol) stroll down the central pathway of Ueno Park. The lanterns looked beautiful and their projecting light made it possible to still view the cherry blossoms.
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| Night time illuminations |
And then we headed home feeling exhausted but incredibly blessed to have been able to enjoy the sakura festival for a second time.... remember we came to Japan on holiday this time last year, before we found out that we would be moving here :o)
I hope you enjoyed this blog post and do watch the embedded YouTube video as I think that will give a better feel for this amazing time of year in Japan.
Love Sheen xxx